A GOURMET TRAVELLER AND COUNTRY STYLE GUIDE WITH TOURISM TASMANIA
Tasmania:
MAKE IT YOUR OWN
(and take it home)
Whether it’s a quick trip from Hobart to the north or a longer meander along the east coast, Tasmania is rich in tasting experiences. From paddock to plate, wineries to distilleries, cheesemakers to produce markets, every region of Tasmania offers a unique story of provenance and the opportunity to meet Tasmania’s passionate producers and growers. Gourmet Traveller and Country Style have curated the following itineraries to inspire your Tasmanian food adventure.
Discover it for yourself
Plan a trip by exploring the five guides below
Ranging from three to five days, these itineraries set out a gourmet feast comprising a vast array of dining, tasting and accommodation options.
We’d like to thank the following photographers for their contributions to this guide:
Lauren Bath, Alastair Bett, Anjie Blair, Dearna Bond, Rob Burnett, Chris Crerar, Jamie Douros, Sean Fennessy, Getty Images, Adam Gibson, Stu Gibson, Nic Gossage, Pete Harmsen, Marnie Hawson, Camille Helm, Jason Charles Hill, Heath Holden, Jesse Hunniford, Lisa Kuilenburg, Monika Kulon, Kathryn Leahy, Lusy Productions, Natalie Mendham, Poon Wai Nang, Liam Neal, Nick Osborne, Shane Pedersen, Chris Phelps, Danielle Prowse, S. Group, Sam Shelley, Kelly Slater, Spreyton Fresh Pty Ltd, Tourism Australia, Tourism Tasmania, Luke Tscharke and Andrew Wilson.
GETTING THERE: Plan your trip with your own wheels and get across to Tasmania overnight via the Spirit of Tasmania, which leaves Geelong, Victoria daily. If you prefer to fly and then hire a car when you’re there, visit vroomvroomvroom.com.au to compare car-hires rates, rental companies and availability. Melbourne has the most frequent flights to Tasmania with Qantas, Virgin Australia, Jetstar, and smaller airlines including Rex Airlines, Sharp Airlines and King Island Airlines. You can also fly direct from Sydney, Adelaide and Brisbane (with Qantas, Virgin Australia, Jetstar), Gold Coast (Jetstar), Canberra (QantasLink) and Perth (Qantas, Virgin Australia). STAY: When planning your trip and accommodation, be sure to check the number of nights offered at your locations of choice. Some accommodation options only offer a minimum of two nights.
Travel notes
Great Eastern Drive
5 days
CURATED BY:
Western Wilds
3 days
Southern Edge
4 days
Heartlands
Northern Forage
Tasmania’s north is rich in both produce and history. Artisanal producers of cheese, wine, beer, bread, nuts and more are hidden around every corner, just waiting to be discovered. Whet your palate in Launceston, recently awarded UNESCO City of Gastronomy status, then turn off the main road and slow down to enjoy the scenery – marvel at the wild Bass Strait, the mountains to the south and the fertile farmland. Take your time and savour every moment.
5 days | 565km
Breakfast at Stillwater is not to be missed, so fuel up before hitting the road and heading west for the Tasting Trail. There are numerous producers in this part of Tasmania, which offers ideal growing conditions for both crops and grapes. In addition, you’ll spot gracious sandstone mansions and homesteads that were built to house the farmers and landowners of these vast properties. Some of these are still occupied by the original farming families, while others have been turned into luxurious accommodation. Leave Launceston and drive towards Deloraine. En route, and in Deloraine’s outskirts, look out for producers including Hazelbrae hazelnuts, Western Tiers Distillery (don’t miss the excellent antique shops in Westbury), Melita Honey Farm and 41° South Tasmania, which produces sustainable salmon. Go truffle-hunting with the hounds at The Truffle Farm or The Truffledore and taste the region’s first-class dairy with an ice cream from Van Diemens Land Creamery or a selection of cheeses at the Ashgrove Dairy Door. Stay at the Naivasha Cottage Tiny House, just outside of Deloraine tonight – it’s petite, stylish and boasts an indoor bath as well as an outdoor wood-fired hot tub. Dinner at the Bush Inn Brewhouse in town is a chance to eat wood-fired sourdough pizzas (from a 125-year-old starter) with housemade charcuterie, or gnocchi with Cape Grim meatballs, as well as more standard pub fare. The publican is a whisky enthusiast, so ask him for a recommendation and a dram. If you can’t bear to drag yourself away from the serenity of Naivasha, order a grazing hamper from the Deloraine Deli and stay in by the fire. Stay at the Naivasha Cottage Tiny House, just outside of Deloraine tonight – it’s petite, stylish and boasts an indoor bath as well as an outdoor wood-fired hot tub. Dinner at the Bush Inn Brewhouse in town is a chance to eat wood-fired sourdough pizzas (from a 125-year-old starter) with housemade charcuterie, or gnocchi with Cape Grim meatballs, as well as more standard pub fare. The publican is a whisky enthusiast, so ask him for a recommendation and a dram. If you can’t bear to drag yourself away from the serenity of Naivasha, order a grazing hamper from the Deloraine Deli and stay in by the fire.
Launceston to Deloraine
Day Two
Land in Launceston on a Saturday morning and head straight to the Harvest Market in the city’s centre for a taste of what Tasmania’s world-renowned food bowl has to offer. Among the 50 or so producers you’ll find locally-grown nuts, fresh sourdough, artisanal cheeses and plenty of vegies plucked from the region’s volcanic red soils. From there, start a tour of some of the wineries of the Tamar Valley. Described by the UK’s Essential Travel magazine as one of the world’s top 10 wine routes, the Tamar Valley Wine Route has 30 wineries to discover. Lunch at Timbre, at Vélo Wines on Launceston’s northern outskirts, where you can not only enjoy one of the state’s best restaurants but also plan your route. If you’re pressed for time, take advantage of a helicopter vineyard tour that offers tastings and fine food at three of the region’s wineries, as well as stunning views. Continue heading north on the West Tamar Hwy to visit Tamar Ridge Cellar Door, then turn right onto Gravelly Beach Rd for Stoney Rise and Marions Vineyard. Don’t cross the river, take the Batman Hwy west and then turn back onto the West Tamar Hwy towards Launceston and visit wineries including Swinging Gate, Glendale and Winter Brook. Stay at Stillwater SEVEN tonight and enjoy luxurious accommodation (and surely Australia’s most beautiful minibars, designed by local furniture maker Simon Ancher) in a restored mill on the water’s edge. Dine at the restaurant downstairs, which is renowned for its innovative food and outstanding service.
Launceston
Day One
Enjoy breakfast in the tiny house or at one of Deloraine’s cafés, then head for the coast and take the Bass Hwy towards Latrobe. There are numerous wineries in the area including La Villa, Prickly Mo and Ghost Rock, which makes an ideal lunch stop with its views out towards Bass Strait and a modern Tasmanian menu. Tonight’s accommodation is at Boscobel in Ulverstone. This beautifully furnished mansion was built in 1885 and is set among manicured gardens with a limestone paved conservatory for pre-dinner drinks. Down on the wharf, enjoy gourmet burgers, pizzas and tacos paired with craft beers and a waterfront view at Buttons Brew Pub.
Deloraine to Ulverstone
Day Three
Enjoy a breakfast of local and organic produce in the grand dining room before resuming your drive along the north-west coast. The nearby town of Penguin is indeed home to a penguin rookery, and if you’re driving through on a Sunday, the Penguin Undercover Market is full of stalls selling local food, wine, art and vintage treasures. This stretch of the Old Bass Hwy is an incredibly scenic drive with expansive views out to Bass Strait, as well as plenty of beaches, picnic spots and walking trails. There’s also a local craft brewery in town, if it’s not too early for a cleansing ale. Continue to Burnie, where you can have a light lunch at The Chapel, a cafe in a converted chapel that roasts its own coffee and has an ever-changing lineup of baked goods. And onwards to Stanley, a picturesque historic town on a peninsula that juts into the Strait and is overlooked by The Nut – all that remains of an ancient volcanic plug. Stay at The Ship Inn tonight, a boutique hotel nestled at the base of The Nut and originally built by the grandfather of Tasmanian-born Prime Minister Joseph Lyons. The Ship Inn has been lovingly restored and each room tells a tale of shipwrecks, agriculture and local history. Enjoy a pre-dinner drink at The Angel’s Share before a meal at the local pub or seafood restaurant (bookings recommended for both) and dessert at the The Stanley Wine Bar.
Ulverstone to Stanley
Day Four
Take a walk around The Nut, along the beach or through the village before enjoying a continental breakfast in your suite. Alternatively, there are numerous cafes in town offering coffee and breakfast. Retrace your route back down the coast, making a detour to Boat Harbour Beach, which has been voted one of Australia’s best beaches. If you’re visiting in October, don’t miss Table Cape Tulip Farm and its spectacular fields of flowers stretching towards the Strait. Lunch today is at Mrs Jones in Devonport, an Asian-leaning eatery set right on the beach with vaulted ceilings and a wall of glass that looks out to sea. From here, it’s back to Launceston via either the Bass Hwy or quieter secondary roads. Don’t forget to have some cash on hand to take advantage of any farm-gate stalls you might come across.
Stanley to Launceston
Day Five
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And onwards to Stanley, a picturesque historic town on a peninsula that juts into the Strait and is overlooked by The Nut – all that remains of an ancient volcanic plug. Stay at The Ship Inn tonight, a boutique hotel nestled at the base of The Nut and originally built by the grandfather of Tasmanian-born Prime Minister Joseph Lyons. The Ship Inn has been lovingly restored and each room tells a tale of shipwrecks, agriculture and local history. Enjoy a pre-dinner drink at The Angel’s Share before a meal at the local pub or seafood restaurant (bookings recommended for both) and dessert at the The Stanley Wine Bar.
Breakfast at Stillwater is not to be missed, so fuel up before hitting the road and heading west for the Tasting Trail. There are numerous producers in this part of Tasmania, which offers ideal growing conditions for both crops and grapes. In addition, you’ll spot gracious sandstone mansions and homesteads that were built to house the farmers and landowners of these vast properties. Some of these are still occupied by the original farming families, while others have been turned into luxurious accommodation. Leave Launceston and drive towards Deloraine. En route, and in Deloraine’s outskirts, look out for producers including Hazelbrae hazelnuts, Western Tiers Distillery (don’t miss the excellent antique shops in Westbury), Melita Honey Farm and 41° South Tasmania, which produces sustainable salmon. Go truffle-hunting with the hounds at The Truffle Farm or The Truffledore and taste the region’s first-class dairy with an ice cream from Van Diemens Land Creamery or a selection of cheeses at the Ashgrove Dairy Door. Stay at the Naivasha Cottage Tiny House, just outside of Deloraine tonight – it’s petite, stylish and boasts an indoor bath as well as an outdoor wood-fired hot tub. Dinner at the Bush Inn Brewhouse in town is a chance to eat wood-fired sourdough pizzas (from a 125-year-old starter) with housemade charcuterie, or gnocchi with Cape Grim meatballs, as well as more standard pub fare. The publican is a whisky enthusiast, so ask him for a recommendation and a dram. If you can’t bear to drag yourself away from the serenity of Naivasha, order a grazing hamper from the Deloraine Deli and stay in by the fire.
Lichened orchards and a plethora of cideries reveal that the Huon Valley is the reason the Apple Isle got its name. But there’s more to this little piece of heaven than apples… The Huon Valley is right at the heart of why Tasmania is so beloved by so many. Rolling hills, clean air, lush river valleys and ocean views provide food for the soul. Farm gates, wineries and cider houses provide world-class nourishment for the body. This is traditional farming country: small-scale, family-owned, organic and sustainable, locals working the land in time-honoured ways to create food and wine that will have you returning again and again. If God was a farmer, heaven would look like the Huon Valley. Thankfully, we get to experience it in the here-and-now – and there’s no better way to immerse yourself in this lovely land than with a road trip. Distances are short: even with the loops that an out-and-back trip entails, you’ll be covering less than 350km across all four days of this itinerary, so there’s time to linger over a coffee in the morning and a wine at night, to sleep in and dream, to relax and stretch and sink into the splendours of the region.
The Southern Edge
4 days | 348km
The Huon Valley is extraordinarily rich in unforgettable eating experiences. Near Fat Pig Farm is a cooking school with a difference; while apple fans can have their pick of the very best of the Apple Isle’s ciders. TASTE: Revel in authentic Italian fare created with local ingredients at Osteria at PettySessions. The two Italian chefs turn out Umbrian dishes and a great wine list. If your tastes veer more towards the apple-based, Frank’s got you. That’s Frank Clark, who 160 years ago planted apple and pear trees his descendants are still harvesting today, and serving up at Frank’s Cider House and Cafe. Grab lunch, tour the orchard – and don’t forget to fill the boot with cider to take home. SEE: Hopefully you left a little space in the boot. Pagan Cider uses whole fruit from a local orchard and no sugar to craft more cracking drops. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch one of their limited runs, with flavours ranging from quince and blueberry to apricot. More Italian culinary traditions are kept alive at the Farmhouse Kitchen Cooking School, where Giuliana teaches classes based on the dishes of her Puglian childhood, from focaccia and gnocchi to cannoli and tiramisu. STAY: When a photographer and interior stylist renovates a grand old building, you know it will be done right. Michelle Crawford’s remake of an old bank in Franklin has resulted in The Bowmont, which serves many functions: Michelle’s own home, a workshop space for creative folk, and now accommodation too.
Cygnet to Franklin
Adventures await as you explore some of Tasmania’s natural wonders, which are found above-ground, underground – and fresh from the ocean. TASTE: Proof positive, if more were needed, that this little corner of Tasmania really does attract rare culinary talent, Masaaki’s Sushi at Geeveston serves up singingly fresh local fish prepared by Masaaki Koyama, a renowned sushi chef. Squeeze into the tiny restaurant and you’ll taste the best of Japan, where Masaaki grew up and trained, blended with the best of Tasmania’s ocean-fresh produce. SEE: On your way out of Franklin, detour west to plunge into the world of Huon pines. You can stroll 50 metres above the forest floor on a cantilevered walkway, for glorious views of life amid the treetops, on the Airwalk at Tahune Adventures. Or drive south to explore underground instead at Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs, where glistening stalactites and stalagmites make up a subterranean wonderland, and where you can soak away any aches and pains in warm mineral waters. STAY: With far-ranging views out to the Huon Valley outside, and simple, modern accommodation inside, Shanleys is a perfect hideaway.
Franklin to Glendevie
It may be the last day of this road trip, but there’s plenty of foodie fun still to experience, from olives to lavender, cider, wine and dairy. TASTE: Set on a hill overlooking the Huon Valley, the family-owned Home Hill Winery and Restaurant serves delicious dishes and its award-winning wines. Tasmania’s famous for its pinot noir, and Home Hill creates some of the best. Your last stop on your way back to Hobart is the famous Willie Smith’s Apple Shed. The rustic barn houses a great cafe; the Apple Museum, telling the long history of apple-growing in the area; and a market selling Huon Valley produce (try the honeys, jams and pickles) and crafts, including ceramics, leather goods, timber work and more. And of course you can pick up still more superb local cider. SEE: Glen Huon Dairy Company produces the milk that goes into the renowned Bruny Island Cheeses. Hop on a farm tour and find out about the rare breeds that produce the milk, plus the sustainable, organic farming practices that make the cheese so special. All farmed out? We didn’t think so. Campo de Flori grows lavender, olives and saffron for a triple-treat farm tour. Their olive oil has won them the status of Royal Tasmanian Fine Food Champions, and it’s well deserved. STAY: The Tasman is Hobart’s newest luxury hotel and offers an overview of the area’s built history in its very fabric, with a heritage wing dating back to the 1840s, an elegant Art Deco section, and a modern wing showcasing the best in contemporary design. Ask them about their exclusive and personalised Epicurean Explorer package.
Glendevie to Hobart
There’s time to take the scenic route as you leave Hobart: the Channel Hwy hugs the coast to give you views across the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and out to Bruny Island (plus a ewe-nique taste experience – see below). And the beauty keeps going once you reach Cygnet: art galleries and craft shops abound. TASTE: Just beyond Cygnet, Fat Pig Farm is the home of TV’s Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans, and hosts workshops, farm tours, long lunches and even picnic cruises on the River Huon. A visit there is truly a feast for all the senses, but make sure you book ahead. Once an apple canning factory, Port Cygnet Cannery is now a restaurant that serves ultra-fresh food from its farm down the road in Gardners Bay. It’s the pick of the dinner spots in town. SEE: On your way out of Hobart, drop in to try the unique sheep’s whey vodka and gin created at Hartshorn Distillery. It shares land with Grandvewe Cheeses, and that’s no coincidence: the sheep dairy-farming family wanted to use the whey that gets thrown out in cheese-making – and so the award-winning drops were created. Stop in for a tasting and you can enjoy the sheep’s cheeses too. STAY: A peaceful coastal retreat with far-reaching views across the Huon River and Cygnet Bay, pretty Beaupre Cottage is set on a farm with its own native forest, billabongs and beach to explore. It’s just 10 minutes south of Cygnet.
Hobart to Cygnet
STAY: A peaceful coastal retreat with far-reaching views across the Huon River and Cygnet Bay, pretty Beaupre Cottage is set on a farm with its own native forest, billabongs and beach to explore. It’s just 10 minutes south of Cygnet.
SEE: Hopefully you left a little space in the boot. Pagan Cider uses whole fruit from a local orchard and no sugar to craft more cracking drops. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch one of their limited runs, with flavours ranging from quince and blueberry to apricot. More Italian culinary traditions are kept alive at the Farmhouse Kitchen Cooking School, where Giuliana teaches classes based on the dishes of her Puglian childhood, from focaccia and gnocchi to cannoli and tiramisu. STAY: When a photographer and interior stylist renovates a grand old building, you know it will be done right. Michelle Crawford’s remake of an old bank in Franklin has resulted in The Bowmont, which serves many functions: Michelle’s own home, a workshop space for creative folk, and now accommodation too.
A Western Wilds road trip begins on the outskirts of Hobart, where the city fades away and the expansive landscape welcomes you into its embrace. As you make your way west, farms slowly give way to mountains while roads loop and wind through unfolding vistas. The west coast is a place of ancient forests, pristine rivers and some of the cleanest air in the world, and the Derwent Valley is the gateway to this untamed environment. Blessed with rich farmland and ideal growing conditions for cool-climate grapes, the valley is a cornucopia of good food, outstanding wine and genuine hospitality. Spend your days exploring the region or curl up with a book and a glass or two of wine, soaking up the peace and calm of country life. If there’s a side road, take it – you never know what you’ll discover around the next bend.
3 days | 260km
After breakfast, drive through the historic town of Hamilton and then take Ellendale Rd at Ouse towards Westerway and Mt Field National Park. Stop at the Westerway Raspberry Farm for fresh berries (in season), jams and ice creams. Learn about the local area and its history at the Mt Field Visitor Centre before taking an easy walk to Russell Falls, a multi-level waterfall set amid the lush, mossy forest. Keep an eye out for platypus on your return stroll. You can drive up to Mt Field itself, but take note of any warnings – the road can be treacherous if there’s been snow (which can happen any time of year). From Mt Field, continue on to Maydena, a small town that’s become one of Tasmania’s many mountain-biking hubs. If two-wheeled adventure is not your thing, experience a unique pedal-powered railway through verdant rainforest. Visit nearby Junee Cave State Reserve for a short walk to the cave entrance, where the Junee River rises to the surface after 30km underground in an extensive cave system. Still chasing waterfalls? Enjoy a 5km-return walk through magnificent ferns and forest to Marriotts Falls on the Tyenna River. Return to your accommodation for another night of silence, star-filled skies and fresh air.
Hamilton
Begin your trip with breakfast at Born in Brunswick in North Hobart, widely regarded as one of Hobart’s best brunch spots. The light and airy, plant-filled space offers breakfast classics as well as options including sumac-roasted cauliflower with crispy halloumi and Tasmanian octopus scrambled eggs with romesco and salsa verde. From there, make your way to the Brooker Hwy and follow the signs towards Launceston. For a scenic and less-travelled route to New Norfolk, turn off the highway at Rosetta (near the Mona exit) and follow Glenlusk Rd towards Molesworth. This picturesque route takes you through stunning valleys and bushland before rejoining the Lyell Hwy at Malbena. Turn left towards New Norfolk and spend some time finding Australian and European antique treasures at Ring Road Antique Centre, The Drill Hall Emporium and Willow Court Antiques. Make a lunch reservation (Fri-Sun) for The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery or pick up some picnic supplies to go from its Kiosk (Sat-Sun) and enjoy lunch by the River Derwent. Cross the river and follow the signs to Queenstown and Strahan. Depending on the season, you’ll pass by cherry orchards laden with fruit, hop farms and paddocks full of lambs. Keep some cash on hand to make the most of any farm-gate stands that catch your eye. Accommodation this evening is at Rathmore, a historic sandstone Georgian homestead and sheep farm just outside the town of Hamilton. Enjoy dinner in the formal dining room or huge farmhouse kitchen with your hosts or, if you prefer, you can self-cater. On the way, stop in at Lawrenny for locally crafted gin, vodka and whisky to enjoy by the fire. Lawrenny is one of the few distilleries in the world offering paddock-to-bottle whiskies – grain is grown on the estate and then mashed, fermented and distilled using the pure waters that run through the property. If you’d prefer something a little more casual-luxe, book a glamping tent at Truffle Lodge at Gretna. Spacious safari tents with private balconies line the banks of the river and breakfast and dinner are included in your stay. In New Norfolk itself, enjoy a cleansing afternoon ale at the Welcome Swallow Brewery before you stay and dine at The Woodbridge, a luxurious Georgian mansion built in 1825.
Hobart to Hamilton
This morning, head back towards Hobart via the Lyell Hwy. Just after Gretna, take the turnoff to Mt Field and then to Bushy Park to follow a quiet, secondary road along the banks of the Derwent, which is fed by the pristine waters of Lake St Clair near Cradle Mountain. Mirror-like stretches of river reflect the expansive view and big skies. Pass through New Norfolk, stopping for a coffee at The Black Swan Coffee and Bookstore before enjoying a wine tasting at Derwent Estate. The Derwent Valley is one of Southern Tasmania’s three wine-growing areas and is known for its cool-climate chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling. Just down the road spend the afternoon with an Italian-inspired lunch and wine tasting at Osteria Vista (Thurs-Sun), the restaurant at the nearby Stefano Lubiana vineyard. The menu changes seasonally and includes Tasmanian seafood, local lamb or pork and puffy, wood-fired bread topped with thick pats of black garlic butter. Take your time to relax and enjoy watching free-ranging chickens wander through the garden, oblivious to the stunning view out over the river valley. You’ll pass by Mona on your way back to Hobart, so if you haven’t already visited this world-renowned gallery, now’s a good time to be inspired and shocked by its art and architecture (bookings essential).
Hamilton to Hobart
Cross the river and follow the signs to Queenstown and Strahan. Depending on the season, you’ll pass by cherry orchards laden with fruit, hop farms and paddocks full of lambs. Keep some cash on hand to make the most of any farm-gate stands that catch your eye. Accommodation this evening is at Rathmore, a historic sandstone Georgian homestead and sheep farm just outside the town of Hamilton. Enjoy dinner in the formal dining room or huge farmhouse kitchen with your hosts or, if you prefer, you can self-cater. On the way, stop in at Lawrenny for locally crafted gin, vodka and whisky to enjoy by the fire. Lawrenny is one of the few distilleries in the world offering paddock-to-bottle whiskies – grain is grown on the estate and then mashed, fermented and distilled using the pure waters that run through the property. If you’d prefer something a little more casual-luxe, book a glamping tent at Truffle Lodge at Gretna. Spacious safari tents with private balconies line the banks of the river and breakfast and dinner are included in your stay. In New Norfolk itself, enjoy a cleansing afternoon ale at the Welcome Swallow Brewery before you stay and dine at The Woodbridge, a luxurious Georgian mansion built in 1825.
Lose your heart to Tasmania’s Midlands as you take a Heartlands road trip from Hobart to Launceston, taking in history and gourmet delights along the way. Some places are heaving with heritage buildings, others with fabulous foodie delights. Some spots are famous for their natural beauty, and others for their unique boutique shopping. It’s hard to imagine any one region could encompass all these attractions – and yet the Heartlands road trip from Hobart to Launceston is a driving adventure that takes in all this and more. Tasmania’s climate makes it the perfect spot to make malt whisky, and plenty of enterprising distillers have joined the industry that Bill Lark kickstarted in 1992 with his now famous Lark Distillery. There’s even a whisky trail – and lovers of the fiery drop will be happy to hear this road trip includes no less than four distilleries. There are also stops for cider fans and wine-lovers, plus all the local produce you could desire. Then there are the natural wonders of the Great Western Tiers, pristinely preserved 19th-century towns that look as lovely as the day they were built, and some superlative antiques shopping. All this in only three days? That’s the heart of Tasmania for you.
3 days | 234km
Time to get on the road out of Hobart – and what a road it is. Winding alongside the River Derwent, the scenery unrolls before you like a red carpet welcoming you into a wonderful new world. You’re driving less than 85km today, a leisurely meander taking in several whisky-themed stops along the way. TASTE: Stop at The Old Kempton Distillery cellar door for lunch, just 40 minutes from Hobart. Housed in a sandstone inn dating back to the 1840s, the cellar door serves up a dizzying array of local produce, from jams and honeys to shortbread and oatcakes. Spare some time to sample the whiskies – and if you really fall in love with them, you can enrol in a three-day Distillery School to find out how it’s done. Once arrived in your home for the night, the lovely Georgian town of Oatlands, dinner is an array of nibbles to complement the impressive wine list at The Imbibers. Focusing on the produce of the Coal River Valley, the charmingly old-fashioned bar serves up spectacular drops – and spectacular cheeses, meats, relishes and dips to go with. SEE: On your way out of Hobart, visit Australia’s oldest whisky distiller, Lark Distillery. A collection of 200-year-old buildings near Pontville houses a cellar door and distillery that’s won swags of awards – and is also Australia’s first certified carbon-neutral distillery. If that’s whetted your whisky appetite, you can make your own single malt with The Serendipity Experience at Callington Mill. The mill is an Oatlands landmark, and even has a history of illicit whisky distilling – but these days, it’s strictly legal. STAY: A stay at Raffah House is a rare chance to whisk back the curtain between the past and the present. The sandstone cottage occupies a plot that once belonged to the owners’ ancestor, and a sensitive restoration has added comfort while maintaining all that history.
Hobart to Oatlands
The road through the Midlands is scattered with so many historic towns that it’s been dubbed the Heritage Highway. Exploring them is the perfect way to break up the 100km journey to Clayfield Homestead, your home for tonight. TASTE: Only half an hour away from Oatlands is Ross, a pretty Georgian village frozen in time. Drop into Bakery 31, the home of the Tasmanian Scallop Pie Company, for a truly sensational pie. Top up with a loaf from the Ross Village Bakery, baked in a colonial-era brick oven. If you’ve hit the third Sunday of the month, drop into the Ross Village Market to stock up on fresh local produce. SEE: A relaxing morning starts with a potter round one of the Midlands’ many marvellous antique shops. Dreaming of a perfectly patinated kitchen table or wingback chair? The Jardin Room in Oatlands is where you’ll find them. At Ross, stroll over the sandstone arches of the 1836 bridge, visit the Tasmanian Wool Centre for stories of the industry that built this area, and wander the Ross Female Factory Historic Site, where female convicts were housed. A few minutes up the road is Campbell Town, whose convict-built red-brick bridge is just two years younger than Ross’s. Readers will relish the Book Cellar, where thousands of volumes fill the cellars beneath an old coaching inn, while the antiques trail continues at Wildes Antiques. STAY: With its exterior washed in the prettiest pink, and its interior full of elegant period detail, Clayfield Homestead, which dates back to 1820, is a spacious, gracious place to rest a while.
Oatlands to Bishopsbourne
It’s less than 30km to your final stop, but don’t worry: you’re taking the scenic route. Venture out west to the Great Western Tiers, a conservation area crisscrossed with walking tracks, before sating your appetite and enjoying some history. TASTE: The World Heritage site of Woolmers Estate is an extraordinary example of an early 19th-century pioneer farm, complete with cottages, stables, a bakehouse and a blacksmith’s workshop, plus a superb rose garden and the Homage Restaurant, an ideal spot for lunch. (While you’re there, don’t miss nearby Brickendon, another colonial-era farm that’s also World Heritage-listed.) Elizabeth Town, just north of Deloraine, boasts happy cows that make Ashgrove Dairy Door a delicious place to visit, serving up everything from gourmet cheese toasties to truffle fondue and cheese platters. Taste naturally fermented ciders and perries at Red Brick Road Ciderworks, and if you’ve still got space for snacks, indulge at Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm, whose signature berry pops up in all kinds of desserts. SEE: Lace up your hiking boots to explore Liffey Falls, where water tumbles down natural sandstone steps deep in a mossy forest. (If you have a day spare, and are feeling energetic, try the five-hour climb of Quamby Bluff for spectacular views.) Then head into Deloraine to check out its Streetscape Sculpture Trail, and Evandale, a town that’s listed in its entirety by the National Trust and home to the National Penny Farthing Championship. On your way into Launceston, drop in at Adam’s Distillery to sample award-winning small-batch drops. STAY: Just 35km south-west of Launceston, your final stop, is your last stay for this trip. And it’s a memorable one: The Granary Richmond Hill is a historic building with all the warmth and comfort of modern living – and it’s all yours for the night.
Bishopsbourne to Cressy
Tasmania’s climate makes it the perfect spot to make malt whisky, and plenty of enterprising distillers have joined the industry that Bill Lark kickstarted in 1992 with his now famous Lark Distillery. There’s even a whisky trail – and lovers of the fiery drop will be happy to hear this road trip includes no less than four distilleries. There are also stops for cider fans and wine-lovers, plus all the local produce you could desire. Then there are the natural wonders of the Great Western Tiers, pristinely preserved 19th-century towns that look as lovely as the day they were built, and some superlative antiques shopping. All this in only three days? That’s the heart of Tasmania for you.
SEE: A relaxing morning starts with a potter round one of the Midlands’ many marvellous antique shops. Dreaming of a perfectly patinated kitchen table or wingback chair? The Jardin Room in Oatlands is where you’ll find them. At Ross, stroll over the sandstone arches of the 1836 bridge, visit the Tasmanian Wool Centre for stories of the industry that built this area, and wander the Ross Female Factory Historic Site, where female convicts were housed. A few minutes up the road is Campbell Town, whose convict-built red-brick bridge is just two years younger than Ross’s. Readers will relish the Book Cellar, where thousands of volumes fill the cellars beneath an old coaching inn, while the antiques trail continues at Wildes Antiques. STAY: With its exterior washed in the prettiest pink, and its interior full of elegant period detail, Clayfield Homestead, which dates back to 1820, is a spacious, gracious place to rest a while.
Tasmania’s east coast is full of colour – a place where clear turquoise waters meet red lichen-covered rocks tumbled among fine white sand. Wineries abound, cellar doors are there for the tasting and fresh, local seafood is always on the menu.
5 days | 538km
Leave Hobart and head towards Sorell, taking the turnoff to Port Arthur and the Tasman Peninsula. Rolling hills and views south are all part of the 50-minute drive to lunch at Van Bone. Nestled into the side of the hill facing north towards the cliffs of Cape Bernier, this intimate fine diner pairs breath-taking views with mouth-watering food. Hyper-local and uniquely Tasmanian, this multi-course and ever-changing menu is not to be missed. From there, head back to Sorell and follow the Tasman Hwy towards Buckland and Orford. When you get to Orford, make a right turn onto Rheban Rd and detour to Spring Beach. Hugged at both ends by sandstone cliffs, Spring Beach has views directly across to Maria Island. Venture just a little further for a gin or whisky tasting at Spring Bay Distillery, the beachside home of award-winning gin. Continue on through Orford to Triabunna, where you’ll be staying at the Triabunna Barracks. This former stable and barracks was a virtual ruin before recently being completely renovated and turned into three luxurious suites. Enjoy a classic pub meal at the Spring Bay Hotel right next door – it’s where the local commercial fishermen congregate and you’ll probably meet the fisherman who caught your meal. The local drink is “Swan and lemonade” but chat to the publican about his collection of top-shelf Tasmanian whiskies.
Hobart to Triabunna
Breakfast is served at the Barracks each morning and includes housemade granola and preserved local fruit, as well as home-baked bread and a hot breakfast that features bacon or sausages made by the butcher across the road. Triabunna is the hub for ferries to Maria Island National Park, a formal penal settlement that is now home to wombats and numerous walking and cycling tracks, as well as dramatic cliffs and white sand beaches. There are no shops on the island, so you’ll need to take picnic provisions. The last ferry back to Triabunna is at 4.15pm, giving you plenty of time to keep heading up the coast. If you’d prefer to spend the day on the mainland, there are numerous wineries to discover along the way up the coast. Boomer Creek at Little Swanport was first settled in the 1800s and in addition to its vineyard, there are sheep and wool for meat as well as an olive grove. Wine tastings and grazing platters are available. Also at Little Swanport is Mayfield Estate, a boutique winery specialising in cool-climate wines, which has only recently opened its cellar door, looking north to Dolphin Sands and south to Maria Island. Stay at the waterfront Piermont Retreat, just south of Swansea, and enjoy views over Great Oyster Bay towards the Hazards of Coles Bay. Scattered around this large property is a mix of stone cottages that are indicative of the local architecture, as well as larger villas. Dine in at the excellent restaurant or make the short drive into Swansea for dinner at The Waterloo Inn. Don’t let the daggy 1980s brick facade fool you: inside you’ll find some of Tasmania’s best food, along with a well-curated, mostly natural, wine list. The menu’s written daily on the original blackboard and once a dish is gone, it’s gone.
Triabunna to Swansea
Breakfast at Piermont features classic dishes with a slight South American twist and is the perfect fuel for a day of touring the coast. Before you leave Swansea, take a post-breakfast walk around the point near the golf club for stunning views across the bay, and keep your eyes open for whales, which sometimes shelter in there. The East Coast Wine Trail showcases vineyards from Triabunna to St Helens and includes Gala Estate, a family-owned farm that was established in 1821 and is Tasmania’s second oldest family business. It’s now a winery, too – book ahead for a private tasting of its award-winning wines. Just past Gala is Craigie Knowe, which is the east coast’s first vineyard (planted in 1979) and offers vineyard tours and lunches. There’s also an excellent patisserie on site, serving beautifully executed high tea that can be matched with wine. Devil’s Corner recently opened its new cellar door, with a dramatic 360-degree viewing platform plus wood-fired pizza and seafood as well as tastings. The popular beach town of Bicheno is home to numerous beaches and The Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre, which features wines from all 20 East Coast vineyards in the one place, plus a retail gallery for Tasmanian artists, designers and craftspeople. Enjoy tastings and put together a unique mixed dozen that can be posted home. If you’re partial to a pastry, drop into Little Bay Patisserie for freshly baked croissants, macarons, madeleines and more. Whisky lovers can book a tour of the new Waubs Harbour Distillery, whose location, perched on the ocean’s edge, infuses its whisky with fresh sea air. Stretch your legs with a short stroll to Apsley Waterhole (perfect for swimming if it’s a warm day) in the Douglas-Apsley National Park on the northern edge of Bicheno. Tonight’s accommodation is at Whalesong Shack, on the water’s edge in the tiny settlement of Falmouth, 48km north of Bicheno. Stock up on supplies in Bicheno or St Helens and enjoy a grazing platter of local produce as you savour the view from the deck, firepit or outdoor bath.
Swansea to Falmouth
Take today to explore – the area is famous for its world-class beaches and mountain biking, with trails to suit all abilities. Drive through St Helens towards Binalong Bay. Park and take a walk along the beach and boulders or drive further north towards The Gardens and discover a string of (most likely) deserted beaches. Enjoy lunch at Meresta Eatery in Binalong Bay (the fruit toast made by a local baker is especially good) or head back to St Helens for a bite at The Lifebuoy Cafe, which also features a selection of well-curated homewares. The East Coast Village Providore is full of local produce and the perfect place to stock up on gourmet gifts or pre-dinner nibbles and drinks. It’s the last night of this road trip, so enjoy a private dining experience (book in advance) at Whalesong Shack and let a local chef cook for you in-house using the finest local produce.
Falmouth
We’re heading inland today. Leave St Helens via the Tasman Hwy and drop in at the farm-gate store at Pyengana Dairy on St Columba Falls Rd for their handcrafted cheeses and other local and Tasmanian gourmet treats. Another one of the state’s spectacular waterfalls is at the head of the valley and it’s just a 15-minute walk from the carpark to the 90m-high St Columba Falls. If you’re ready for lunch, visit the Pub in the Paddock – literally a pub sitting in a paddock. It’s one of Tasmania’s oldest hotels and a fun spot for a country lunch. As you continue heading towards Launceston, the road begins to steepen and the turns sharpen as you approach the world-class Derby mountain-biking region. There are plenty of ways to spin your wheels here, but otherwise just enjoy the drive as it winds through the forest and looks out over the farmlands below.
Falmouth to Launceston
When you get to Orford, make a right turn onto Rheban Rd and detour to Spring Beach. Hugged at both ends by sandstone cliffs, Spring Beach has views directly across to Maria Island. Venture just a little further for a gin or whisky tasting at Spring Bay Distillery, the beachside home of award-winning gin. Continue on through Orford to Triabunna, where you’ll be staying at the Triabunna Barracks. This former stable and barracks was a virtual ruin before recently being completely renovated and turned into three luxurious suites. Enjoy a classic pub meal at the Spring Bay Hotel right next door – it’s where the local commercial fishermen congregate and you’ll probably meet the fisherman who caught your meal. The local drink is “Swan and lemonade” but chat to the publican about his collection of top-shelf Tasmanian whiskies.
Tonight’s accommodation is at Whalesong Shack, on the water’s edge in the tiny settlement of Falmouth, 48km north of Bicheno. Stock up on supplies in Bicheno or St Helens and enjoy a grazing platter of local produce as you savour the view from the deck, firepit or outdoor bath.
The popular beach town of Bicheno is home to numerous beaches and The Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre, which features wines from all 20 East Coast vineyards in the one place, plus a retail gallery for Tasmanian artists, designers and craftspeople. Enjoy tastings and put together a unique mixed dozen that can be posted home. If you’re partial to a pastry, drop into Little Bay Patisserie for freshly baked croissants, macarons, madeleines and more. Whisky lovers can book a tour of the new Waubs Harbour Distillery, whose location, perched on the ocean’s edge, infuses its whisky with fresh sea air. Stretch your legs with a short stroll to Apsley Waterhole (perfect for swimming if it’s a warm day) in the Douglas-Apsley National Park on the northern edge of Bicheno.
